What I've noticed Water Testing...
Time is flying…I just can’t believe it…Fourth of July right is
around the corner! Hope all you fathers enjoyed a wonderful
Father’s Day. It sure was pool weather! We’re working long hours
these days to try to make sure we’ve got all your pool needs
covered. We love seeing each and every one of you that comes to
visit in our store each day.
As many of you know, there’s a new bartender in town…it’s the girls bar.
Water testing…what a life, that’s what it’s like…bartending…get to socialize and
mix concoctions all day. Wish we could blend in some Margaritas or Martinis.
Maybe next year…they are selling their liquor license next door!
I’ve been thinking and trying to recall all the advice we’ve been giving out
lately. As usual, there is a great array of water problems to tend to. You
must have all figured it out by now that, as much as it doesn’t make sense, your
neighbor’s pool can be perfect and yours can have all kinds of silly problems
even though you apparently work at it and seemingly do everything right and your
neighbor appears neglectful. It’s not fair, I know. You also all know, I
believe, that your pool can be crystal clear and sparkling and test horrible
while a green, swamp-like pool can test perfect and need nothing more than a
good Shock Treatment. You never can tell until you visit the Family Pool Bar.
Here is what I’ve discovered this year so far: (feel free to scan down-it's
long :)
Many people have
either no chlorine, very high chlorine, or combined chlorine.
No to low chlorine:
- No chlorine could simply
be due to the nice weather we had this spring. We’re not used to having so
much sun this early on. More sun and more use causes the chlorine to be
used up more readily
- If you are using
Pristine Blue, don’t forget, we’re only adding chlorine, by way of Shock,
weekly so by the end of the week, it would be normal to test no chlorine and
it would be okay because the Pristine Blue is the sanitizer and keeping your
pool safe to swim in. If you are using Pristine Blue, your chlorine tests
zero or low, and your pool is clear…it’s okay. If the pool is cloudy and
everything else tests okay…Shock it extra.
- If you notice that your
chlorine is disappearing…you put it in and the next day it’s gone or you
Shock it and the next day it’s gone, this could be another problem,
particularly if you or your neighbor has had any part of the yard
fertilized. If you get Nitrates or Phosphates in your water, it can make
your chlorine keep disappearing like that. If you suspect this is happening
to you, you can ask us to test for Nitrates and Phosphates. We would be
glad to and then we would follow-up with the right advice according to the
test results.
High Chlorine:
Many of you
have topped our charts or beyond with your chlorine levels. We had one family
tell us yesterday that when they got out of their pool and wiped off with their
towels that their towels turned white! Uh oh! It is not exactly known why some
pools use more chlorine and others less. There are the common factors like a
shady yard vs a sunny yard, lots of children/swimmers vs few children/swimmers,
and, of course, your other water balance. For instance, if you have a high
Cyanuric Acid level in your pool then it may lock in the chlorine for longer
periods of time than a pool with a lower level. High chlorine is, of course,
wonderful for fending off algae but we do not want to sacrifice ourselves or our
clothing to obtain this : ).
-
If your chlorine tests too high and is not
burning off, make sure you check the source of the chlorine such as an
automatic chlorinator, generator, tablets, or Shock additions. If you have
an automatic device and are running your filter longer than usual then this
could be a cause. Make sure to turn down, turn off, or remove your chlorine
source until the chlorine drops down to the normal level. Be careful not to
let it go the other way…too low! Covers can also stop chlorine from burning
off as fast as usual.
-
In many cases a day of sun is all a pool needs
to burn off that chlorine. If the sun alone doesn’t do it and you would
like to lower the level, we do sell Chlorine Neutralizer which typically
works within two hours. If your hundred guests are on their way and you are
nervous, don’t be afraid to throw some in. Remember though, once they
leave, you probably will need to Shock again.
-
If you are using Pristine Blue, shocking
weekly, and your chlorine is staying high then cut down your shocking to
every other week. Everybody’s pool is different. We designate our rules to
the percentages. Did you all see the Pirates of the Caribbean?…they’re
guidelines : ). We only use chlorine Shock with our Pristine Blue for
clarity. If you can get by with shocking the pool every other week and the
pool stays clear then that’s wonderful. We just find that most pools would
go cloudy with a two week span. You can test it and fine tune your routine
to whatever fits best with your pool.
Combined Chlorine:
When you
have molecules in your pool calling to be sanitized such as algae, bacteria, or
any contaminants, your chlorine will attach to and combine with these molecules
forming chloramines or combined chlorine. It simply means that your chlorine
did its job. It’s not a bad thing, just one you have to fix. You can’t test
for combined chlorine but you can test for Free Chlorine and Total Chlorine. I
have shown many of you the formula in the store, FC + CC = TC. If your Free
Chlorine tests low and your Total Chlorine tests higher then you know the
difference is Combined Chlorine.
·
If you do discover that you have some
combined chlorine in your pool then a good heavy pool shock is the remedy. I
sometimes recommend a non-chlorine shock if your chlorine levels are already
high such as a Free CL of 2 ppm and a Total CL of 5 ppm, however, most often I
just recommend a good heavy dose of Liquid Shock Treatment, at least twice the
normal dose. A double dose of Shock would be 2 gal Shock per 10,000 gal water.
The higher the combined chlorine, the more Shock is necessary to burn it off. I
choose Liquid Shock due to the fact that it is non-stablized so it will not
build up your Cyanuric Acid level particularly since I am having you add
additional doses. Typically, Liquid Shock will burn off fast too so you are not
living with a prolonged high chlorine level. You will find that, oftentimes, it
is necessary to shock more than once to oxidize out combined chlorine.
Note: It is Free Chlorine that
keeps algae at bay. If your Free Cl remains below 1 ppm then your pool is
susceptible to algae regardless of what your Total Cl is. Combined Cl which
makes up part of your Total Cl is used up, has done its job, and is no longer
useful…furthermore, it is responsible for those chlorine smells, irritated skin,
eye burn, green hair, and all those ill effects you hear people talk about.
That’s why routine shocking is so important.
Many pools have tested out with a high Cyanuric Acid level this year for some
reason. We always get a few and they are usually a little later in the season
as it has time to build-up but I have to say we have quite a few this year
already.
High Cyanuric Acid:
·
Unfortunately, there is no chemical to bring down the Cyanuric
Acid level once it is high. There used to be, years ago, but they took it off
the market. Now we only have two choices to lower Cyanuric Acid. One is to
drain the pool partially and refill with fresh water. The other is to remove
the source of Cyanuric Acid and let it drop naturally through dilution by rain,
refilling after evaporation, and backwashing over over the season. If draining,
it really takes draining the pool at least a couple feet to make a difference.
You will be surprised at the small difference this makes but it definitely will
help.
·
Sources of Cyanuric Acid. Cyanuric Acid is found in most
chlorinating tablets such as Powersticks, Giant Tabs, and Quick Tabs. It is
also found in many shock treatments such as Energizer Plus. Lastly, Cyanuric
Acid is what we are adding when we add SunShield 4000 or Conditioner and
Stabilizer. This is why it is important not to add Conditioner and Stabilizer
every spring if you do have other sources of Cyanuric Acid you will be adding
such as chlorine tablets or Energizer. The level will build up on its own. The
alternative to chlorine tablets is Pristine Blue. The alternatives to Energizer
are Liquid Shock or Lithium Shock. If you are having a problem, feel free to
ask us and we will recommend a solution best for you.
It would be a total exception if we had a year without cloudy water. There are
always people with cloudy water because there are so many causes of cloudy
water.
Cloudy Water:
Cloudy water is a tricky one because there are so many
different filtration systems out there and so many difference possible
remedies. I try to stick to a certain few that I find work best. The important
thing for you to remember is that it is a
combination of filtration and water chemistry that keeps the water clean.
Cloudy Water/Sand Filter:
- I recommend clearing the
water as best as possible before balancing in the spring only because you
end up vacuuming to “waste” often to clear the pool of fine debris and there
is no sense in wasting chemicals. Having the pool off-balance can make it
hazy but not so cloudy you can’t see the bottom. If you can’t see the
bottom:
1) Check the
pH and adjust to normal or low but not high
2) Shock the
pool heavily with at least 2 to 3 times the normal Shock. We recommend Liquid
Shock Treatment because it is non-stablized and the cheapest way to purchase
Shock. We sell it in 5-gal carbouys and it is not too much to add 10 gal all at
once to an average sized inground pool.
3) Run the
filter 24/7 for a day or two then shut it off overnight to let things settle or
keep it running and keep backwashing if you are making progress.
4) If algae
and debris settles to the bottom, vacuum on “waste” position.
5) If your
pool is still cloudy, try a filter aid such as DE powder, Flock, or Dry
Clarifier into the skimmer with the filter running so that the filter aid goes
directly into the filter and mixes with the sand to help it trap fine
particles. Let the filter run 24/7 for as long as you can without backwashing
to trap the particles. Backwash, as necessary, when you lose your circulation.
Repeat this process if you are making progress.
6) If your pool is still not
clearing sufficiently, it’s time for the Last Resort! Last Resort is a settling
agent to help those particles making your pool visibly cloudy sink to the
bottom. Make sure there is no rain in your forecast. Put your filter on
Recirculate position, add 16 oz Last Resort per 10,000 gal water to your pool (a
little more is okay too), let circulate for 1 to 2 hours then shut off the
filter. Let debris settle for 12-48 hrs then vacuum on “waste”.
7) If you got most of it out with
the Last Resort and it’s just a little hazy now, repeat step 5 and it’s time
balance your water.
- Another simple and easy
tip to help is to use Filter Savers in your skimmer baskets. They are like
nylon stockings and they capture lots of fine particles before entering your
filter. Check them often so that you do not block water from getting to
your pump and so you don’t blow out the bottom of your baskets.
Cloudy Water/Cartridge Filter:
- If you have a cartridge
filter, your water is balanced, and your pool is still cloudy, go heavy on
the Shock Treatment. If a heavy shock didn’t do it, I recommend using DE
Powder as a filter aid. I know some people don’t like using the DE but I
still find it to be the best solution. I don’t like liquid clarifiers in
cartridge filters because they put a gel over the cartridges making them
hard to hose off. If you have a Sta-Rite Modular Media filter which is the
big black tank with the two big cartridges in it, one large wide one and one
taller one, then add 5 lbs DE to the skimmer with the filter running so the
DE goes directly into the filter. If the circulation is poor then hose down
the filters first then add the DE. You want to make a 1 to 2 pound
difference in the filter pressure when adding the DE so check the gauge
before you add the 5 lbs then after. If you saw no difference then add
another pound or two of DE until you do. We are trying to clog up your
filter so it traps the fine particles. Let the filter run 24/7 and you
should see a difference within a day or two. If your circulation cuts down
and becomes inadequate, you’ll have to hose down the filters and repeat the
process if you are making progress but are not fully there yet. Remember
to always drain your filter tank thoroughly before removing your cartridges
to clean them so that no debris gets into the stack opening at the bottom of
the tank. If you have a smaller cartridge filter then you can follow
the same process but using less DE. You can check with us in the store for
the recommended amount.
- Another simple and easy
tip to help is to use Filter Savers in your skimmer baskets. They are like
nylon stockings and they capture lots of fine particles before entering your
filter. Check them often so that you do not block water from getting to
your pump and so you don’t blow out the bottom of your baskets.
Cloudy Water/DE Filter:
- If you have cloudy water
and have a DE filter, this is much less common. DE filters are the most
efficient. First and foremost, you want to make sure you are not getting DE
back into your pool from your filter. You can check this by looking into
the pool where the water returns right when the filter turns on after being
turned off for a while. If you see a cloud coming back into the pool then
that’s an indication that you may have something wrong with your filter.
Since there are several different types of DE filters, I will not get into
all the different remedies but just say you should visit Kevin in our store
to ask for possible solutions. Feel free to bring your filter or the inside
of your filter with you for us to inspect. We have most parts necessary on
hand.
- If you are not getting
DE Powder blowing back into your pool, your water is cloudy, and your pool
is balanced then try a good heavy Shock Treatment and running your filter
longer. A DE filter does work better with a shut down period because
everything settles to the bottom and when the system turns back on, the
powder is lighter than the dirt and it recoats the elements while the dirt
stays to the bottom and around the filter and takes time to build back up.
This makes the circulation a bit stronger until the pressure builds up
again. We recommend, if you have a timer, to run it 10 hrs on, 2 off, 10
on, 2 off when having problems. Return to regular cycling when the pool
clears up. Without a timer, try running the system 18 to 20 hrs per day.
- Another simple and easy
tip to help is to use Filter Savers in your skimmer baskets. They are like
nylon stockings and they capture lots of fine particles before entering your
filter. Check them often so that you do not block water from getting to
your pump and so you don’t blow out the bottom of your baskets.
- If you are still having
a problem, make sure that your chlorine is holding and either Shock again
heavily or have us check for Nitrates and Phosphates in your water. If you
have Phosphates then Phos Clear, our Phosphate removal chemical, sometimes
can help to clear a cloudy pool.
- As much as I don’t like
liquid clarifiers in pools filtered by DE because they can gel up the
inside, the Aquapill clarifiers seem to do a decent a job without messing up
the filter so much. People like them. As Charlie used to say “put your
pool on the pill”. Clariiers clump together fine particles so the filter
can pick them up better. The Aquapill comes with a pin, simply poke holes
as the package describes and place the whole pill into your skimmer. The
liquid will empty out over a few days then throw away the empty pill.
- Lastly, if you have a
Sta-Rite Modular DE filter, the combo filter, you can add a couple extra
pounds of DE on top of your regular 9 or 11 lbs that you normally add to
clog the filter up a bit to help. If you really can’t get the pool clear
and you can’t detect anything wrong with your filter, you can borrow a house
filter from us to see if it makes a difference. If it does, leave your
filter with us so we can inspect it to see if we can see what the problem
was. Also, make sure the o’ring is in place on your stack pipe on the
bottom of the filter where your cartridge element sits down onto it inside
the tank. Also, make sure you drain your tank thoroughly before removing
your cartridge to hose it down to insure that dirty water and debris do not
get into that stack opening at the bottom where it can return into the pool.
One last common problem I’ve seen this year and much more than years past is
discolored water or staining caused by metals, particularly Manganese.
This
problem has been the most discouraging because it can be so hard to fix. The
manganese most likely comes from your water source when you are adding water
after backwashing, vacuuming to waste, splash out, evaporation, or maybe just
filling the pool up from the winter for the year. People who never have
manganese in their water supplies are experiencing this year. Testing for
manganese is something we can do in our lab but we don’t do it routinely. Make
sure you tell us all the symptoms of discoloration, how it occurred, etc. so we
may determine if we should test for it or, if you read the following paragraphs
and think this may be a problem you are experiencing, feel free to request a
Manganese test when you bring your water in next.
Just a
note: I have a close friend who is a chemical engineer working in the area. I
put a call in to him after noticing a recurring problem. He has done water
tests on the water in the Merrimack River. He noticed a big spike in Manganese
levels around the first of June. Coincidentally, this is when I started having
so many people come into the lab having problems. Unfortunately, I do not know
what caused the spike. I don’t imagine it could come from rain because everyone
would have a problem and they don’t. Whatever the cause, I currently have
people testing high for Manganese in Lawrence, Andover, N Andover, Chelmsford,
in NH in Salem and Windham…all having water from different water supplies.
Symptoms occurring from a high mineral content have been:
-
discoloration of
water to green or brown upon Shocking the pool
-
black stains on the
surface that don't rub or brush off
-
minerals can also
cause brownish staining that doesn't rub or brush off - not to be confused
with bleed-through mold staining which looks similar, bleed-through mold
staining usually does not appear on vertical walls or step units, whereas,
mineral staining can occur all over
-
stains or
discoloration can occur from raising the Alkalinity, pH, or Shocking -
usually, the discoloration is instantaneous
There
are two ways to approach a Manganese problem:
1) The
first is to Shock it out. You can Shock the pool excessively, 20 gal Shock in
an average inground pool. This treatment could go very well and the pool could
turn instantly black and end up leaving you with a black sediment across the
whole bottom which you could vacuum out. It could also leave you with an entire
stained pool instead, in which case, we would proceed with the second remedy to
use a mineral treatment to lift the stains and filter out the manganese. I
do not recommend trying this method on a gunite pool due to the fact that it
is harder to remove stains from plaster than from vinyl.
2) The
second is more traditional, to use a mineral treatment such as Super Erace to
lift any stains, sequester any metals, and help them filter out. The problem
with Manganese is that it is so fine that will not most likely be filtered out
by Sand filters and possibly not filtered out all the way by Cartridge filters.
We recommend using DE (diatomaceous earth) in both Sand and Cartridge filters as
a filter aid when ridding the pool of minerals.
more to come...
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