Filtration vs. Chemistry
The big fight is on . . . who is it that’s making
your pool cloudy?
Is it Filthy Filtration or is it Killer Chemistry?
Let’s knock them both out and let Water Sparkles
be the winner!
Let's review some scenarios
It’s definitely the filter that’s a problem. It’s, obviously, not
efficient enough to tackle the fine particles suspended in your
water. They are going right through the sand and back into your
pool. A sand filter is only capable of filtering out a particle
approximately 40 microns in size. Therefore, if the suspended
particles are smaller than that, say 10 microns in size, the filter
will not capture them.
Your objective: One of two. You can either sink the
particles to the bottom of the pool where you can vacuum them out on
“waste” position or you can add a filter aid to the skimmer so that
it goes into the filter to help the filter trap the fine particles.
Our suggestions: Use Last Resort to sink the particles or
Dry Clarifier as a filter aid.
It sounds like a filter problem. A DE filter is extremely
efficient. It filters out a particle down to 3 microns. Wow! It’s
possible but not likely that the particles suspended in the pool
making the water cloudy are smaller than that. Therefore, particles
may be going through your filter and back into the pool due to a
broken part on the interior of your filter. Let’s explore all
possibilities.
Your objective: Process of elimination.
Our suggestions:
- First eliminate the fact that it’s not a filtration problem by
running your pool 20 hrs a day in case you have an abundance of fine
particles that the filter is not keeping up with.
- Second, add a Filter Saver to your skimmer basket in case there
are ultra, ultra fine particles that are passing through the filter.
Rinse your Filter Saver daily.
- Remove the top of your filter and check the internal filter
elements for holes. Any type of rip or tear in a finger or grid will
allow DE and debris back into the pool. If you do have a broken
part, simply bring it in so we can give you the right part.
- If you have a Perflex filter, check the two plates that the
fingers attach to for any type of cracks. If you’re not comfortable
making this check, simply bring your filter top into our store and
we’ll inspect it for you. We do stock replacements plates if that
happens to be the problem. Also, check the check valve at the bottom
of the tank to make sure that it is not worn.
- If you have a Vertical Grid DE filter, check to make sure the
stack pipe that the grid assembly sits onto has a good o’ring on it.
- If you have a multiport valve, remove the top of the multiport by
removing the seven screws and lifting the top. Now check the spoke
shaped o’ring to see if it looks to be in good condition. If it is
not, please contact us to see how to properly change
this o’ring. Unfortunately, there is only a 50% chance that if you
replace the o’ring that it will seat properly. It’s worth a try.
We do not suggest: We do not suggest multiple additions of
liquid water clarifiers to pools with DE filters because they cause
the DE to clump together making it almost impossible to backwash the
filter and harder to clean the filter manually.
Sounds like that darn filter. A Cartridge filter runs in between
a sand filter and a DE filter as far as efficiency. It filters down
a particle as small as 10 to 15 microns depending on how dirty the
filter is. However, if there is a lot of fine algae or pollen built
up in your pool, it can easily pass right through the cartridges and
back into the pool.
Your objective: To increase the filter’s efficiency.
Our suggestion: Add DE Powder to the skimmer with the filter running
so that it goes into the filter and coats the cartridges, therefore,
increasing the filter’s ability to trap fine particles. The amount
of DE will vary according to the size of the filter. We suggest that
you slowly add DE until you see a 1 to 2 lb difference in pressure.
If you have a Sta-rite Modular Media Systems III 300 sq. ft. filter,
then we suggest you add 5 lbs of DE or more, if needed, to see a 1
to 2 lb difference in pressure. If your circulation is poor prior to
adding the DE then we recommend that you hose down or clean the
filter cartridges first then proceed with the treatment. In
addition, it would help to add a Filter Saver to the skimmer basket
to also catch fine particles. Make sure to check it daily so you do
not clog the skimmer and block water from the filter.
We do not suggest: We do not suggest liquid water clarifiers with
Cartridge filters. They may help in clumping together the fine
particles so the filter removes them but they will also put a sticky
coating onto the cartridges making them very hard to clean
afterwards.
It very well could be a chemical problem. This is not necessarily
the case but, through process of elimination, you need to balance
your water first to find out.
Our suggestions: Bring your water into us for our
FREE friendly water
analysis by our trained staff. Our lab is most likely more accurate
than your home test. Follow the suggestions made on your printout.
We will gladly go over them with you in the store. Check this out:
- Low pH can cause cloudiness and corrosion of pool equipment
- High pH can cause cloudiness, eye burn, and sanitizer inefficiency
- Low Total Alkalinity can cause pH instability, corrosive conditions,
and an unsatisfied saturation index
- High Total Alkalinity can cause pH Bounce, metal fall out leading to
staining, and an unsatisfied saturation index
- Low Calcium Hardness can cause lack of sparkle and an unsatisfied
saturation index
- High Calcium Hardness can cause cloudy water, scaling, and an
unsatisfied saturation index
- Low Cyanuric Acid can cause loss of chlorine through sunlight
leaving pool low in chlorine and susceptible to algae which,
oftentimes, starts with cloudy water
- High Cyanuric Acid makes chlorine efficiency very low and not safe
for swimming
- We have more information on the
use of chemicals to address problems here
Although Shock Treatment is not always the answer, it doesn’t usually hurt. If your sanitizer level is low and
your water is cloudy then we normally suggest adding Shock Treatment
to the pool in case it is just coming down with something. You
know…it’s like sniffles for the pool. Many times, they turn cloudy
just before they turn green. Usually, you can nip it in the bud by a
simple Shock Treatment. It’s like Echinacea for the pool. Boost its
immune system. Make it immune to bacteria and algae.
Our suggestions: Make sure your pH is balanced because Shock does
not work if your pH is high. Also, do not add Shock Treatment if you
tend to suffer from constant or known mineral problems. Shock can
cause minerals to fall out of solution and to stain your pool.
Otherwise, use your regular Shock Treatment or choose a Shock from
our Shock Treatments list and see what happens. It can’t hurt. It is
best to add at night and it is, usually, okay to swim the next day.
Just check your chlorine residual. It is safe to resume swimming
when the chlorine level is 3.0 ppm or lower. If, for some reason,
you have a high “combined chlorine” reading, reshock. Keep shocking
until your combined chlorine level subsides. See
How Chlorine Works.
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